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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, situated prominently among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

The little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. This honour has left the family utterly surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks the family member, alluding to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their small restaurant achieving such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery definitely excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent quality.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

It is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is set to have meaning outside its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this culinary achievement.